Here we are sitting at the North end of Harris and we are just over halfway through our four week tour. Either heading into a state of zen like being or a complacency that this time in two weeks we will be back to it and all of this will seem like a life time ago. Let’s just go with the former and deal with the latter when it arrives. Besides, if the next two weeks spread out as much as the last two it will surely be the Autumn when we return. Just as an FYI when we cross the border into England it does not meet the same level of elation as crossing the border into Scotland – funny that but let’s just leave that one there! Suffice it to say if there was ever a petition to say let’s move the border 60 miles further south we’d be the first to sign it, for the sake of making this an apolitical blog, it’s maybe best to leave that one there as well!
it’s actually only about 4 days since we left Ullapool but we seem to have done so much since then. Amazing to think really we could still be there, or who knows where else, waiting to get the brakes fixed.
We’ve spent the last 4 nights living off grid so getting a bit low on charge. This, however, has led to a conclusion that it really is true that the more stuff we have the more we have to worry about and that’s not always an entirely healthy or happy place to be. One of the most striking things about being a small part of these island communities, even for a short period of time, is the appreciation of small things for small things sake.

This was where we spent our first couple of nights near to Rhenigidale, the last place in Scotland to be connected to the rest of the community with the completion of the road which was only officially opened in 1990. Prior to that the only way in and out was either by Boat or on foot. For years we’ve wanted to do the Postman’s walk between Tarbert and Rhenigidale . This was the main route that, not only the postman used three times a week but right up until the 1980’s, the local children used (at all times of year in all weathers and regardless of daylight) twice a day every day to get to school. It was very beautiful the day we did it but bleak is the only word that must have applied at times.. here are some photos of the walk into the postman’s path and when we were on it.







Another abandoned village along the way.


And before we knew it, well at least our knees did! we were at the end of the postman’s path.

With just a few more wholesome miles to walk back to the van. A good 12 mile round trip and thoroughly recommend it if you ever get chance to do this walk, it’s well worth it.
From there it was a hop and a skip into Tarbet where it would have been wrong, and possibly a bit rude, not to visit the distillery and purchase both a gin and a whisky – just for the purpose of sampling you understand. At this point Emma had also kindly shared her chest infection and I am a great believer in the medicinal properties of a fine malt! Whether it’s the medicinal properties of the whisky or the zen like status I now appear to be past caring, about most things!
From Tarbet we parked up and used some good facilities for refilling with water and emptying waste (essential for off grid living, regarding the emptying of waste, no prizes for guessing whose job that was .. again!). Regardless of all that we cycled out to Scalpay (via the Bridge Over The Atlantic) .

Followed by a walk to Scalpay lighthouse

Pictured here with the old and new beacons. What a life the lighthouse keepers must have had. Hard to imagine anything quite like it now.

Cycled back to the van, again with some lovely scenery along the way.

Including a rather nice spot for a breather – the good thing about rides like this is you can always blame the need to stop and take photographs rather than the hills for stopping! That’s our excuse and we are sticking to it
So what next… pitched up at Horgabost where we have stayed on family holidays in the past. Yesterday was “damp” and we were forced to spend the day doing nothing. That was hard work! Doing nothing actually consisted of reading, drinking tea and eating, it’s a tough life.
When the sun shines, it’s beautiful.

We’ve done two bikes rides today firstly down towards Leverbrugh




And then back out towards Luskentyre which was stunning..



There really are no words for the beauty of Harris. It’s amazing to see all the new crofts that are being built – it’s like a live episode of Grand Designs and we’ve seen a fair few now that we would happily live in!! Fear not we will return, that’s both a return home and to this very special and beautiful place. Tomorrow we head further south and start to travel down through the Uists, Eriskay, Barra and the gem of the all, in my opinion Vatersay. More updates to follow and we hope that you are continuing to enjoy them with us.

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